Plumbing Blog | 1Touch Plumbing

Hot Water System Maintenance Guide for Townsville Homes: 9 Tips to Extend Its Life

admin / August 20, 2026

Your hot water system is one of the hardest-working appliances in your home, and one of the easiest to forget about, until you turn on the tap and get a cold shower instead of a hot one. Or the water runs rusty. Or there’s a puddle at the base of the tank you can’t explain. The good news is that most of this is preventable. A handful of simple checks done regularly can catch these problems while they’re still small, long before they turn into a cold shower or a call-out repair. In this guide, we’ll explain how to maintain electric, solar, heat pump, and continuous-flow hot water systems, and when to book professional servicing. TL;DR Know Your System Before You Start Before carrying out any maintenance, identify the type of system installed in your home. Most Townsville homes have one of the following hot water systems: Once you’ve identified your hot water system, you can carry out the appropriate maintenance checks. 9 Essential Hot Water System Maintenance Tips 1. Check the Anode Rod Townsville’s water contains minerals that can gradually corrode the inside of storage hot water systems. To help prevent this, these systems use a sacrificial anode rod, which attracts corrosive minerals before they can damage the steel tank. As the anode rod performs its function, it gradually wears down and becomes less effective. If it isn’t replaced when needed, the storage tank becomes more vulnerable to corrosion, which can shorten the system’s lifespan. What to do: 2. Ease the Temperature Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve Storage hot water systems use a Temperature Pressure Relief (TPR) valve near the top of the tank to release excess pressure as water heats and expands. Over time, minerals can build up inside the valve, causing it to stick or fail to seal properly. What to do: 3. Flush Sediment from Storage Tanks Storage systems gradually collect sediment at the bottom of the tank. As the sediment layer thickens, the system has to work harder to heat the water, reducing efficiency and increasing wear on the heating element and the tank. What to do: 4. Clean Solar Collector Panels Solar collector panels rely on direct sunlight to heat the water in your storage tank. Dust, bird droppings, coastal salt, leaves, and other debris can gradually build up on the glass, reducing the amount of sunlight the panels absorb. As a result, the system becomes less efficient and relies more on the electric or gas booster to heat the water. What to do: 5. Clean Heat Pump Air Filters and Keep the Unit Clear Heat pump hot water systems draw heat from the surrounding air to warm the water in the storage tank. Grass clippings, leaves, and fast-growing vegetation can quickly block the air intake or restrict airflow around the unit. Reduced airflow forces the heat pump to work harder, lowering efficiency and increasing energy use. What to do: 6. Inspect Pipe Insulation and Pipework Hot water travels through insulated pipes from the storage tank to your taps. Over time, intense sun can cause pipe insulation to crack or deteriorate, while weather, moisture, and normal wear can affect exposed pipework, valves, and fittings. Damaged insulation allows heat to escape, while leaks and corrosion can reduce efficiency and lead to more costly repairs if left unchecked. What to do: 7. Flush the System After Long Periods of Low Use When a hot water system sits unused for weeks, water can remain in the tank and pipework for an extended period. Stagnant water can develop unpleasant odours, and minerals and sediment can settle in the system, affecting water quality and system performance. What to do: 8. Check for Rust, Corrosion, and Pest Activity Townsville’s humid climate and coastal air can accelerate corrosion on exposed metal components. Outdoor hot water systems may also attract insects, spiders, geckos, and other pests that can interfere with electrical components or gas burners. What to do 9. Check the Thermostat Setting The thermostat controls the temperature of the water stored in your hot water system. Under Queensland law, storage systems should maintain a temperature of at least 60°C to help prevent the growth of harmful bacteria. A faulty thermostat can cause water to become too hot, not hot enough, or heat inconsistently, affecting both safety and efficiency. What to do: Seasonal Maintenance for Townsville Homeowners In addition to the tips above, Townsville’s tropical climate brings a few season-specific things worth watching for. Here’s what to check depending on the time of year: Season What to Watch For Recommended Check Dry Season (May–October) Dust, coastal salt, and prolonged sun exposure can affect solar panels, pipe insulation, and outdoor units. Clean solar panels, inspect pipe insulation, and remove debris from around outdoor units. Wet Season (November–April) Heavy rain, humidity, and storms can increase the risk of corrosion, water pooling, and reduced solar performance. Check drainage, inspect for leaks or rust, and ensure the solar booster is working properly. Final Thoughts The tips in this guide will help you stay on top of your system’s condition, catching the obvious stuff before it turns into a bigger problem. But there are parts of the system you can’t safely access yourself, and that’s what a licensed plumber is for. We recommend scheduling an annual service so someone can take a proper look at the parts you’re not equipped to check, and catch anything that needs repairing or replacing before it turns into a system failure at the worst possible time. Our plumbers at 1Touch Plumbing are QBCC licensed and ready to help, whether your system’s due for a service, needs a repair, or just isn’t performing like it used to. Contact us today to keep your hot water system performing at its best. FAQs How much does hot water system servicing cost in Townsville? A routine hot water system service in Townsville costs between $250 and $400, depending on the type of system and the work involved. If worn components need replacing, repairs range from

Hot Water System

Solar Hot Water Systems Explained: Costs, Pros & Cons, and Is It Right for Your Home?

admin / August 18, 2026

Hot water is one of the biggest line items on a Townsville energy bill, typically accounting for 15-25% of total household energy use. That’s a significant chunk of your bill riding on a single appliance, and one of the main reasons homeowners start looking at solar. But whether solar hot water works for your home depends on more than just having a sunny roof. Based on the systems we’ve installed across Townsville, we’ll break down what these systems typically cost, the pros and cons of owning one, and what to consider before you decide. TL: DR How Does a Solar Hot Water System Work? A solar thermal hot water system (not solar PV, which generates electricity from the sun’s energy rather than heating water directly) uses solar collectors to capture heat from the sun. That heat is transferred to an insulated storage tank, allowing your household to use hot water while reducing the amount of electricity or gas needed throughout the year. Here’s what happens, step by step: For most Australian households, a properly sized solar hot water system can supply up to 90% of a household’s annual hot water needs, with the booster only operating when additional heating is required. Types of Solar Hot Water Systems At the core, the difference in every solar hot water system comes down to two things: how it moves the water, and how it heats it. Movement is decided by active vs passive circulation, while heating is decided by direct vs indirect systems and the type of collector used. Which combination works best for you will depend on your household usage, your local climate, and your budget. Let’s walk through how each one works, what sets them apart in real-world performance, and which household each one suits best so you can land on the right one for yours. Active vs Passive Systems An active system uses an electric pump to push water, or a heat-transfer fluid, from the collectors to the storage tank. Because the pump drives the flow, the tank can sit anywhere that suits your house – on the ground or in a roof cavity. The pump also lets you control how fast and how often the water circulates, so the system keeps output steady even when sunlight is weaker or usage spikes. A passive system moves water without a pump. It relies purely on convection: heated water rises naturally while cooler water sinks, creating a slow, self-driven loop between the collector and the tank. For that loop to work, the tank has to sit above the collectors, usually mounted directly on the roof, which adds constant weight your roof structure has to bear long-term. And because there’s no pump to keep things moving, the loop also weakens on cooler or overcast days, when there’s less heat to drive convection, leaving you with lukewarm or cold water exactly when you need it. That said, passive systems do cost less upfront, but once you weigh in the roof strain and the days you’ll fall back on a backup heater, the savings don’t stretch as far as they first look. Our verdict: We recommend active systems for every household, especially ones with kids, where demand is higher throughout the day. The pump keeps hot water running reliably, independent of the weather. Direct vs Indirect Systems A direct system circulates your household water through the solar collectors, where it’s heated by the sun before flowing into the storage tank. Because the water is heated directly, there’s no heat exchanger or transfer fluid involved; it’s simple and relatively less expensive to install. The downside is that the household water is exposed to outdoor temperatures inside the collectors. In colder climates, that water can freeze and expand, damaging the collector pipes. It also means minerals naturally found in the water continue circulating through the collectors, which can gradually cause scale build-up in areas with hard water. An indirect system circulates a specialised heat-transfer fluid through the collectors instead of your household water. The heated fluid then passes through a heat exchanger inside the storage tank, warming the household water without the two liquids ever coming into contact. Because the transfer fluid is designed to resist freezing, the collectors remain protected during frosty weather. Keeping household water out of the collectors also helps reduce mineral deposits and internal corrosion over time, making these systems more reliable in colder climates or regions with harder water. Our verdict: For Townsville and most warm Australian climates, a direct system usually works just fine. But if you live in an area that experiences freezing temperatures, the additional freeze protection of an indirect system is well worth the higher upfront cost. Flat Plate vs Evacuated Tube Collectors A flat plate collector uses a dark metal absorber plate beneath a toughened glass cover to capture the sun’s heat and transfer it into water or heat-transfer fluid flowing through copper pipes. The whole thing is built as one sealed panel, which keeps manufacturing simple and makes it the cheaper option to buy and install. But because the panel is only glass and insulation between the absorber and the outside air, it loses more heat on cold or windy days, so its performance dips in cooler conditions. An evacuated tube collector uses a row of individual double-walled glass tubes with a vacuum sealed between the layers. That vacuum works like a thermos flask, reducing heat loss to the surrounding air so the collector can continue absorbing useful heat even during cold, windy, or overcast weather. Building each tube this way costs more to manufacture, so evacuated collectors carry a higher price tag. They are also more exposed than a sealed panel, so an individual tube can crack or fail, though the upside is that a damaged tube can be swapped out on its own without replacing the whole collector. Our verdict: We recommend flat plate collectors for most Townsville homes. The insulation advantage evacuated tubes offer only shows up in cold, windy, or overcast

Plumbing

What Causes Water Hammer & How to Fix It

admin / August 12, 2026

Water Hammer – that loud bang every time your washing machine, dishwasher, or toilet shuts off is caused by a pressure surge that occurs when moving water suddenly stops inside your plumbing. Every day that it goes unfixed, that pressure surge places stress on pipe joints, valves, appliance hoses, and fittings. This repeated shock can eventually lead to leaks or premature component failure. The tricky part is that the same noise can have several different causes. Instead of jumping straight to a water hammer arrestor, this guide will help you diagnose the problem first, match it with the right repair, and know when it’s time to call a plumber. TL: DR 5 Most Common Causes of Water Hammer The same banging noise water hammer causes can have several different underlying reasons, so the right fix depends on what’s really creating the pressure surge. 1. Fast-Closing Valves and Appliances If the banging started after you installed a new washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator with an ice maker, or even a new toilet fill valve, that appliance is the first place to look. These fixtures use electrically operated solenoid valves that shut off almost instantly. When fast-moving water stops in a fraction of a second, it creates a pressure surge that travels back through the pipework. Older mechanical valves closed more gradually. Modern solenoid valves are designed for fast, precise water control, which means upgrading an appliance can introduce water hammer even when nothing else in your plumbing has changed. 2. High Water Pressure If the banging happens at several fixtures throughout the house, high water pressure is one of the first things to rule out. High water pressure doesn’t cause water hammer on its own, but it makes every pressure surge more forceful. A problem that is barely noticeable at normal pressure can become much louder as the pressure rises. Pressure consistently above 550 kPa (80 psi), unusually strong tap flow, leaking pressure relief valves, and plumbing fixtures that wear out prematurely are all common signs that household water pressure is too high. 3. Waterlogged Air Chambers or Missing Cushioning If the hammer has gradually become louder over time, particularly in an older home, the plumbing may no longer have enough cushioning to absorb pressure surges. Many older plumbing systems use vertical air chambers that trap a pocket of air to absorb hydraulic shock. Over time, those chambers can fill with water, leaving little or no air to cushion the pressure surge. Some homes don’t have an air chamber or water hammer arrestor near fast-closing fixtures at all. Without that protection, the pressure wave travels through the pipework and creates the familiar banging noise. 4. Loose Pipework or Worn Valves If the noise seems to come from inside a wall or ceiling, the pipes may be moving more than the pressure surge itself. Even a relatively small pressure surge can cause unsupported pipes to strike wall framing, ceiling joists, or neighbouring pipes, making the bang much louder than it would otherwise be. Worn shut-off valves, ageing toilet fill valves, and failing appliance valves can also make water hammer worse by closing unevenly or chattering during shut-off. If the noise is limited to one tap or toilet, replacing the faulty valve is often a better solution than installing an arrestor. 5. Trapped Air or Poor Pipe Layout If the banging started after plumbing work or a recent repair, trapped air in the system may be the cause. In some homes, the way the pipework is laid out can also make pressure surges louder. These problems are less common than faulty valves or high water pressure, but they can produce similar symptoms. Diagnose the Problem in 30 Seconds If you notice… The most likely cause Washing machine bangs at the end of a fill cycle Fast-closing solenoid valve Multiple fixtures bang High household water pressure Noise inside one wall Loose pipework Started after a new appliance Missing arrestor or fast-closing valve Arrestor didn’t solve it Pressure problem or another plumbing fault How to Fix Water Hammer The right fix depends on what’s causing the pressure surge. Before replacing parts, identify which fixture is making the noise. Water hammer affecting one appliance usually needs a different repair than hammer affecting the entire plumbing system. 1. Find the Fixture Causing the Noise Start by identifying exactly where the noise is coming from. This quick check usually tells you which repair to try first. How to do it The next step depends on what you found. If the noise is limited to one fixture or appliance, continue to the Local Fixes for a Single Fixture section below. If the noise occurs at multiple fixtures or throughout the house, move to Reduce High Water Pressure first. Noise at multiple fixtures usually points to a plumbing system issue rather than a single faulty fixture. 2. Local Fixes for a Single Fixture Restore Waterlogged Air Chambers If you live in an older home and the hammer developed gradually, restoring the air chambers is a good place to start. How to do it If the hammer returns quickly, the air chambers are no longer providing enough cushioning. Installing a water hammer arrestor is the more reliable long-term fix. Install a Water Hammer Arrestor If the noise only comes from a washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, ice maker, or another appliance with a fast-closing valve, a water hammer arrestor is usually the most effective solution. How to do it Use the correct arrestor size for your plumbing system. Replace Worn or Fast-Closing Valves If the hammer is limited to one toilet, tap, or appliance, replacing the valve may solve the problem. How to do it 3. Reduce High Water Pressure If the noise occurs at multiple fixtures or throughout the house, check your household water pressure before replacing anything else. How to do it 4. Secure Loose Pipework Behind Walls and Ceilings Sometimes the pressure surge isn’t the main problem. The noise is caused by pipes moving and hitting the framing or

Blocked Drains

How to Clear a Blocked Drain Without Damaging Your Pipes

admin / July 23, 2026

A slow-draining sink, water pooling in the shower, or a gurgling toilet are all common signs of a blocked drain. The good news is, these are some of the most common blocked drains we fix across Townsville, and a good number of them can be cleared with the right DIY approach. In this guide, we’ll cover what you can safely fix yourself, what you shouldn’t attempt, and the right approach for the specific drain you’re dealing with, so you don’t turn a simple blockage into a bigger, more expensive plumbing repair. TL;DR Before You Try Any of the Methods Below 6 Ways to Clear a Blocked Drain on Your Own The methods below are arranged from the simplest to the most involved. Start with the first method and work your way down only if needed. This helps reduce the risk of damaging your pipes while giving you the best chance of clearing a minor drain blockage yourself. 1. Flush the Drain with Hot Water This is the first thing worth trying if water’s still draining, but slowly. It works well on grease and soap residue, though it won’t do anything for a hair clog that needs physically pulling out. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, laundry drain Things you’ll need: How to do it: 2. Break Down Build-Up with Baking Soda and Vinegar If hot water alone didn’t fully clear it, this is the next step up. The fizzing reaction helps break down soap scum and light organic build-up, but like the hot water flush, it won’t help dislodge a solid hair clog or a foreign object stuck in the pipe. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, laundry drain Things you’ll need: How to do it: PS: At this point, you might be tempted to reach for a chemical drain cleaner, so if you do use one, follow the manufacturer’s instructions exactly. If it doesn’t clear the blockage, don’t try to force it by increasing the concentration, leaving it in longer than recommended, or mixing in another cleaner, that can harm you, damage the pipe, and make it unsafe for a plumber to work on later. 3. Dislodge the Blockage with a Plunger If the fizzing didn’t help, you’re likely dealing with something sitting in the drain and that’s where a plunger can help. Just make sure you’re using the right one for the job. For sinks, showers, and baths, use a flat-cup plunger, or an accordion plunger if you need a stronger grip. For toilets, use a flanged plunger, the one with the extra rubber lip, which is built to seal in the bowl and won’t work properly on anything else. Works for: kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or bath, toilet Things you’ll need: How to do it (for sinks, showers, and baths) How to do it (for toilets) 4. Remove the Blockage with a Hooked Wire or Drain Snake If plunging didn’t get things moving, you’re likely dealing with hair wrapped around the pipe wall or snagged at the trap. A hooked wire or drain snake will help grab and pull that clump out but you’ll need to be careful with how much force you apply. If you hit firm resistance and keep pushing, you risk cracking an old trap, scratching the pipe, or shoving the clog further in where it’s harder to reach. Works for: bathroom sink, shower or bath drain Option A: Hooked Wire Things you’ll need: How to do it: Option B: Drain Snake Things you’ll need: How to do it: 5. Remove and Clean the P-Trap (U-Bend) If you’ve tried everything above and it’s still blocked, the clog is probably sitting inside the U-bend itself, right where a plunger or wire can’t quite reach it. So your only option is to take the pipe off and clean it out by hand – which takes more effort than the earlier steps, but it puts you directly at the spot where the blockage is stuck. Works for: kitchen and bathroom sink Things you’ll need: How to do it: 6. Clear Surface Debris from Outdoor Drains This one covers a different situation: water pooling around an outdoor grate or stormwater drain, with leaves, dirt, or debris visible on top of it. Works for: outdoor stormwater grates Things you’ll need: How to do it: A little tip: Townsville’s wet season pushes leaves and dirt into outdoor grates fast, so it’s worth checking them regularly during heavy rain. And if the grate’s clear but water is still pooling, that’s a sign the blockage is further down the pipe – you’ll need to call a plumber to inspect and fix it. 7. Extract the Blockage Use a Wet/Dry Vacuum If you don’t have a plunger on hand, a wet/dry vacuum is a solid alternative for a stubborn blockage. It can pull the obstruction back up toward the opening, which makes it much easier to remove by hand afterward. It’s best suited to softer blockages like paper, hair, or organic matter, and won’t do much against anything solid or lodged deep in the system. Works for: toilets, kitchen sinks, bathroom sinks, bathtubs, showers Things you’ll need: How to do it: One important caution here: Never use a wet/dry vacuum if you’ve recently poured a commercial chemical drain cleaner into the drain. The vacuum could spray all those chemicals back towards you. Final Thoughts Even if you’ve managed to clear the blockage, it’s not always a permanent fix. If the same drain keeps blocking after you’ve cleared it, or more than one fixture is affected at once, the problem is usually deeper within the drainage system. It could be anything between a tree root intrusion, or severe pipe damage – which are all structural issues that none of the DIY methods in this guide will fix. That’s where a professional inspection makes all the difference. At 1Touch Plumbing, we use CCTV drain inspections to identify the actual cause of recurring blocked drains, allowing us to

Plumbing

Signs You Have Tree Roots in Your Pipe & How to Remove Them

admin / July 21, 2026

Tree roots enter your sewer pipe through small cracks or loose pipe joints, then continue to grow until they restrict or completely block the flow of wastewater. But identifying the warning signs early helps you address the root cause before it leads to major pipe damage, sewage backups, or more expensive repairs. In this guide, we’ll share with you the common signs of tree roots in pipes, how to confirm the problem, DIY and professional removal methods, and the best ways to prevent tree roots from growing back. TL;DR Signs You May Have Tree Roots in Your Pipes Indoor Warning Signs Outdoor Warning Signs How to Confirm Tree Roots in Pipes Tree roots grow inside underground pipes, so you can’t confirm the problem by looking at your drains or yard. A licensed plumber uses specialised equipment to locate the root intrusion, assess the pipe’s condition, and recommend the most suitable repair method. Here is what a plumber does: DIY Methods to Remove Tree Roots from Pipes Under the Queensland Plumbing and Drainage Act 2018, only a licensed plumber can repair, replace, alter, or dismantle sanitary drainage pipes. But you can use a few non-invasive DIY methods to control minor tree root growth inside the pipe. These methods don’t involve repairing or altering the pipe, so you stay within the law. Copper Sulphate Treatment Copper sulphate kills the fine feeder roots that have grown through cracks or pipe joints. As the roots die, they gradually break down and wash away with normal wastewater flow, improving drainage. How to use it: This method only works when wastewater can still flow through the pipe because a complete blockage prevents the treatment from reaching the tree roots. Commercial Foaming Root Killers Foaming root killers release a foam that expands to fill the pipe. The foam sticks to the pipe walls and joints, coating the roots growing from the top and sides, and the active ingredient then kills the fine roots. How to use them: Foaming root killers work best on early root intrusion. They won’t clear a pipe clogged with thick roots or fix cracks that let roots keep growing back. Household Drain Auger A household drain auger is a flexible steel cable with a corkscrew tip that breaks up or pulls out fine tree roots and loose root fibres from the pipe. It works best on small root intrusions close to an inspection opening but isn’t powerful enough to clear large root masses or collapsed pipes. How to use it: Stop immediately if the cable becomes stuck or you feel excessive resistance. Forcing the auger may crack older earthenware pipes or cause the cable to become trapped. Professional Methods to Remove Tree Roots From Pipes If wastewater is overflowing from your overflow relief gully (ORG) or inspection opening, or backing up into your home, the blockage is too severe for DIY chemical treatments. At this stage, a licensed plumber will use the following methods to remove the roots. Mechanical Root Cutting (Drain Eel/Snake) A plumber feeds a heavy-duty rotating steel cable into the sewer pipe using a powered drain machine. A specialised root-cutting blade or C-cutter attached to the cable spins through the tree roots, cutting them into smaller pieces and reopening the pipe. Mechanical root cutting typically costs $150 to $350 for a standard residential drain blockage. It works best for thick tree roots causing localised blockages in clay, cast-iron, or PVC sewer pipes. However, root cutting only removes the blockage. It doesn’t repair the cracks or separated pipe joints that allowed the roots to enter, so roots often grow back. The cutting blades can also damage old, brittle earthenware pipes. High-Pressure Hydro Jetting After mechanical root cutting, plumbers use hydro-jetting to remove any remaining root fibres, grease, sludge, and debris. A hydro-jetting machine pumps high-pressure water through a reinforced hose to clean the entire inside of the pipe. Hydro jetting typically costs $300 to $600 for a standard residential blockage, depending on the severity of the blockage and access to the pipe. Like root cutting, hydro jetting removes the blockage but doesn’t seal cracks or damaged pipe joints, allowing tree roots to return through the same openings. Our team at 1touch Plumbing uses professional equipment to clear blocked drains, remove tree roots, and restore normal wastewater flow. How to Prevent Tree Roots From Growing Back in Pipes To prevent future root intrusion, we recommend one of the following long-term solutions. Trenchless Pipe Relining After removing the tree roots, a plumber inserts a flexible liner coated with structural epoxy resin into the damaged pipe. The liner is inflated and cured in place, creating a seamless pipe inside the existing one that seals cracks and separated joints. Most residential pipe relining projects cost $4,000 to $12,000. It is the best option for pipes beneath driveways, buildings, patios, or landscaped areas where excavation would be costly or disruptive. To confirm relining suits the extent and type of damage, our team at 1Touch runs a CCTV inspection first, then carries out the trenchless pipe relining. Traditional Excavation and Pipe Replacement If the pipe has collapsed or tree roots have caused extensive damage, plumbers excavate the affected area, remove the damaged pipe and root mass, and install new PVC sewer pipe with watertight joints. Simple pipe replacements start from $1,000, while larger or more complex excavations cost significantly more. Excavation may also require repairs to lawns, gardens, paving, or driveways after the new pipe is installed. Although excavation and replacement is the most disruptive option, it permanently removes the damaged pipe and eliminates the entry points that allowed tree roots to invade. Root Barrier Installation A plumber installs a root barrier between the tree and the sewer pipe to redirect growing roots away from the drainage system and protect repaired or newly installed pipes. Professional installation typically costs $200 to $300 per linear metre, depending on the barrier type, trench length, and site conditions. They work best where large trees are close to underground sewer

Roof Repair

How to Stop a Roof Leak Fast: Temporary Fixes, Real Repairs, and What Not to Do

admin / July 16, 2026

Even a small roof leak can quickly soak insulation, damage ceilings and timber framing, create electrical hazards, and lead to mould if water keeps coming in. This guide shows you how to find where a leak is actually coming from, stop it safely with a temporary fix suited to your roof, and avoid the mistakes that turn a small leak into a bigger one. TL;DR What to Do First to Stop a Roof Leak How to Stop a Roof Leak Temporarily Once you’ve taken the necessary safety precautions, follow these step-by-step instructions to temporarily stop water from entering your home. Step 1: Make Sure It’s Safe to Inspect or Repair the Roof Before planning any temporary repair, consider the weather and the condition of your roof. Do not climb onto the roof if: Onceit is safe to go on the roof, then move to the next step. Step 2: Gather the Right Tools and Materials Before accessing your roof, gather the right equipment to make the repair safer, quicker, and more effective. Here is what you need: Avoid using household products such as silicone, duct tape, expanding foam, or general-purpose construction adhesives. They’re not designed to withstand Australia’s harsh weather conditions and can fail in the sun, heavy rain, or as the roof expands and contracts. Step 3: Find the Exact Source of the Roof Leak Rainwater travels along roof battens, rafters, sarking, insulation, or roof sheeting before entering the ceiling and dripping, so you must know exactly where the water is getting in to repair it. Start by identifying where the leak is visible inside your home. Watch out for water stains on the ceiling or walls, bubbling paint, damp plasterboard, mould growth or active drips during rainfall. This narrows your search to one section of the roof rather than the entire roof. Next, if it’s safe and you can access the roof cavity, inspect it using a torch. Check the area above the ceiling damage for wet insulation, damp roof framing, water stains on timber, active drips, or daylight coming through the roof. Water often leaves visible trails as it runs along rafters or battens, so follow these trails uphill, as they can lead you closer to where the leak is entering the roof. From there, follow the moisture trail to nearby roof features such as the ridge cap, roof valley, skylight, roof vent, chimney, or solar panels. Noting these landmarks will help you find the same area when you look at the roof from outside. Step 4: Inspect the Roof to Identify What’s Causing the Leak You now know the likely location of the leak, so inspect the roof from outside. Grab a ladder and climb up onto the roof – start at the highest point above the suspected leak and work your way down, checking each roof component for damage that would allow water in. Check the following areas: Step 5: Choose the Right Temporary Repair Method Once you’ve identified the cause of the leak, choose one of the temporary repair methods below that matches the type and extent of the damage. Replace a Leaking Roofing Screw Roofing screws are fitted with neoprene washers that create a watertight seal. Over time, these washers can harden, crack, or compress, allowing water to seep around the screw. If only one or two screws are leaking: Seal Small Gaps Around Flashing Using Roofing-Grade Sealant If the flashing is securely fixed but water is entering through small gaps or deteriorated sealant, a roofing-grade sealant can provide a temporary waterproof seal. Clean and dry the surface and then apply the sealant. Run a continuous bead along the gap to ensure it completely seals the opening without leaving any gaps. This method is suitable for minor gaps around skylights, roof vents, chimneys, and other roof penetrations. It won’t solve leaks caused by loose, rusted, or damaged flashing, which requires replacement. Patch Small Holes or Splits in a Metal Roof Using Self-Adhesive Tape Small punctures, rust pinholes, or minor splits in metal roof sheeting can be covered with self-adhesive roof repair tape or a roof patch. To apply it: Temporarily Cover a Cracked Roof Tile Cover cracked tile with heavy-duty waterproof plastic that extends beyond the damaged area. Tuck the edges of the plastic under the surrounding tiles to keep it in place and direct rainwater over the affected tile instead of through it. Install a Temporary Roof Tarp for Larger Leaks or Storm Damage If your roof has missing roofing sheets, broken roof tiles or large openings from a storm, a waterproof tarp can keep rain out until permanent repairs are done. To apply it: Clear Minor Blockages If your inspection found leaves or debris blocking the gutters or roof valleys, carefully remove them by hand or with a scoop to restore water flow. Then check that water drains freely into the downpipes. If water still isn’t draining properly, the blockage may be inside the downpipe and require further clearing or professional assistance. Step 6: Check That the Temporary Repair Is Working When you finish the temporary repair, be sure the repair material is secured, the tarp is in place, or the replacement screw is sealed securely. Look for any gaps, loose edges or areas where water could still get in. Then inspect the affected room for: Remember that ceilings, insulation, and timber continue releasing trapped moisture for hours or days after the leak stops. A few residual drips don’t necessarily mean the repair failed, but if you notice new water entering your home or the affected area continues to spread, you should call a licensed roofer right away. Step 7: Arrange a Permanent Roof Repair Delaying permanent repairs can turn a minor leak into a more costly problem. Ongoing water intrusion can damage insulation, ceiling linings, timber framing, and internal finishes, while increasing the risk of mould, timber rot, and corrosion. Book a professional roof inspection as soon as possible to assess the full extent of the damage and repair

Roof Repair

Roof Waterproofing Services: What’s Included and What to Expect

admin / July 14, 2026

Roof waterproofing protects your home by creating a sealed protective layer across your roof that stops rainwater from penetrating inside. Without it, water slowly works its way through cracks and worn spots, and by the time you notice, the damage is already done. The signs it’s needed are usually very telling – a musty smell that won’t go away, mould showing up in the attic or on nearby walls, water stains on your ceiling, and shingles that are curling or cracking. Now, cost-wise, you’re typically looking at somewhere between $1,000 and $10,000, but it depends on the size of your roof, its current condition, and what materials the job calls for. It’s not a small spend, but a proper waterproofing job can last up to 25 years, so you’re really paying once to protect your home for decades. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what actually happens during a waterproofing job, the materials your contractor will likely bring up, and the questions worth asking before you hire anyone. TL;DR What’s Typically Included in a Roof-Waterproofing Service? In Townsville, roof waterproofing can only be done by licensed roof plumbers or waterproofing contractors if the work is worth more than $3300, which involves the following: 1. Roof Inspection First, a technician comes to your place, climbs up on the roof, and takes a good look around. They check for: They try to figure out where water is coming in from. Once they find the problem spots, they snap some photos and explain to you what’s going on, so you can see the issue clearly before any work starts. 2. Roof Cleaning Next, they give the roof a thorough cleaning; this is called ‘surface preparation’. They use high-pressure water to wash off dirt, moss, mould, bird droppings, and anything loose that stops the coating from sticking properly. This step is very important because waterproof coatings only bond well to a clean surface. If there’s dust or moisture left behind, the coating won’t stick properly and could peel off later. 3. Small Repairs Before applying any waterproofing, the expert checks for visible damage so the new layer can stick evenly to the surface. This includes: These repairs are necessary because if you just cover up damaged areas with waterproofing, the uneven, broken surface underneath can keep shifting, cracking, or getting worse over time. That can loosen or split your waterproof layer above it, letting water seep back in through the same weak spot. 4. Sealing the Weak Points Now the plumber focuses on the spots where roof leaks happen most often. This includes pipe openings, skylights (glass windows on roofs that let in natural light), and roof edges. These areas fail more because they have joints, gaps, and openings through which water can easily slip. They seal these areas using waterproof sealants and strengthening materials that block water from getting underneath the roof surface. 5. Applying the Waterproof Layer This is the main part of the service. The expert spreads a liquid waterproof coating across the whole roof using rollers or spray tools. Once it dries, it turns into a flexible protective layer, like a rubber skin over the roof. This blocks rainwater and also protects the roof underneath from the sun, moisture, and weather damage. The coating is applied in multiple layers. After the first coat dries fully, they add the next one on top. This creates a smooth, thicker, more durable waterproof barrier that’s less likely to crack or wear out. 6. Checking Drainage After coating, the plumber checks the roof drainage system to make sure water can flow off the roof properly. If water stays sitting in one place for too long (ponding), it can slowly weaken even a new waterproof layer. To prevent this, the professional examines the gutters, drains, downpipes, and the roof’s slope. If they find any problem, they may recommend clearing blockages, adjusting the roof slope, or improving drainage points so water can drain away properly instead of collecting on the roof. 7. Final Inspection and Clean-Up Finally, the plumber inspects the roof one more time to make sure everything is sealed properly and evenly coated. They also clean up the site and remove any leftover dirt or material. After that, you get a warranty that if the waterproofing fails or starts leaking within a certain time because of poor workmanship or material failure, the team will come back and repair it at zero cost. Types of Roof Waterproofing Solutions You May Be Offered The right solution depends on your roof material, slope, drainage, sun exposure, and how much movement or foot traffic the surface gets. Most Common Types of Roof Waterproofing Solutions – At a Glance Roof Type Best Waterproofing Solution Average Lifespan Metal Roofs (Colorbond, steel) Liquid-applied membranes, Acrylic coatings, PU coatings 10–15 years (liquid), 5–10 years (acrylic), 10–15 years (PU) Flat Concrete Roofs Torch-on bitumen membranes, Silicone coatings, Cementitious coatings, PU coatings 15–25 years (bitumen), 15–20 years (silicone), 8–12 years (cement), 10–15 years (PU) Tiled Roofs Liquid-applied membranes, Acrylic coatings 10–15 years (liquid), 5–10 years (acrylic) Roofs with Drainage Problems Silicone coatings, PU coatings, EPDM membranes 15–20 years (silicone), 10–15 years (PU), 25-30+ years (EPDM) Large Flat Roofs PVC or TPO sheet membranes, EPDM membranes 20–30 years (PVC/TPO), 25-30+ years (EPDM) 1. Membranes A membrane is a thick, continuous, waterproof layer that covers the roof like a shield. It is stronger and lasts longer than coatings. Liquid-Applied Membranes These are liquid waterproofing materials rolled or sprayed over the roof, where they dry into a seamless rubber-like layer. They are commonly used on metal and tiled roofs and complex roof shapes because the liquid spreads into cracks, joints, screw holes, and uneven areas to fully seal the surface. Most systems last around 10–15 years. Torch-On Bitumen Membranes This membrane uses thick rolls of bitumen (a sticky, tar-like, waterproof material) heated with a gas torch, so they melt, fuse, and stick to the roof to create a thick, waterproof sheet. They are mainly used

Roof Plumbing

Signs Your Roof Plumbing Vent Is Clogged & How to Fix it

admin / July 9, 2026

Your roof plumbing vent pulls fresh air into your pipes so water drains smoothly and sewer gases escape safely outside. But leaves, bird nests, dirt, and debris build up inside the vent pipe over time and block that airflow, which throws your entire plumbing system off balance. The good thing is that a clogged vent gives off very clear, hard-to-miss warning signs. By catching them early, you can clear the blockage yourself with basic tools before it escalates into a costly plumbing repair. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the most common signs of a clogged roof vent and exactly how to fix it safely. TL;DR Signs Your Roof Plumbing Vent Is Clogged How to Unclog Your Roof Plumbing Vent Safely Cleaning a roof vent yourself can save money, but it is risky work. Roofs are high and often slippery, and one wrong step can cause a serious fall. So, only attempt to unclog if you have a sturdy ladder, non-slip shoes, and someone with you to hold the ladder and watch from the ground. Here’s how to clear the vent step by step. Step 1: Clear The Area Around The Vent Pipe Once on the roof, you’ll see a pipe sticking out – this is the roof vent blocked by leaves, twigs, and sometimes bird nests. Wear gloves and remove all visible debris from the top. Be careful not to push anything inside the pipe, because that can send the blockage deeper into your plumbing system and make it harder to remove. Step 2: Flush The Pipe With a Garden Hose If the clog is not visible, it is likely deeper inside the pipe. Insert a garden hose into the vent opening and have someone turn on the water. The water pressure helps push the blockage down through the pipe and into the main drainage line, where it can clear naturally. If water starts coming back up out of the vent, it means the blockage is solid and fully blocking the pipe. Turn the water off immediately to avoid overflow and move to the next step. Step 3: Use a Plumbing Snake (Auger) to Break Up or Pull Out the Clog A plumbing snake, also called an ‘auger’, is a long, flexible metal cable designed to break up or pull out blockages inside pipes. Feed the cable down into the vent until you feel resistance – that is the clog. Turn the handle of the auger to rotate the metal cable so it can break through, hook, or push apart the blockage. Keep pushing and turning until the resistance loosens. After that, run the hose again to confirm water flows freely without backing up. If it still backs up, you need professional help. Step 4: Use a Wet-Dry Vacuum to Safely Suck Out the Blockage This method works best if the blockage is loose, like leaves, twigs, or light debris, and you want to remove it instead of pushing it further down the pipe. Do not take the vacuum machine onto the roof. Instead, use a long hose extension (around 6 to 10 metres). Most wet-dry vacuums can still work effectively at this length without losing much suction power. This allows you to keep the machine safely on the ground while only the lightweight hose goes up the ladder. When you reach the vent, secure the hose with a rope or bungee cord, so it stays in place and doesn’t affect your balance. Then ask the person on the ground to switch on the vacuum and let it pull the debris out of the pipe. Step 5: Install a Vent Cap for Future Protection After clearing the pipe, install a mesh vent cap or a U-shaped cover on top of the pipe, which allows air to flow freely but blocks leaves, birds, and other debris from entering again. Step 6: Clear the Clog From Inside the Attic (PVC Pipes Only) If you can’t safely access the roof, you can clear the blockage from inside the attic, but only if your vent pipe is made of PVC (plastic) because it can be safely cut and resealed. First, locate the vertical pipe inside your attic that leads up to the roof vent. Carefully cut a small section of the pipe using a hacksaw to create an access point. This gives you a controlled opening to work with. From here, insert a plumbing snake upward towards the roof or downward into the drainage line to break up the clog. Once the blockage is cleared, seal the cut opening properly by applying a patch fitting, repair coupling, or PVC solvent cement. This is very important because if it is not sealed properly, sewer gases can leak into your attic instead of going safely out through the roof vent. When to Call a Professional Plumber in Townsville DIY methods work for basic leaf or debris clogs, but some situations need a licensed plumber with proper tools, training, and safety equipment. Here’s when you should stop DIY work and call a professional: Final Thoughts If you notice signs like gurgling drains, slow flow in multiple fixtures, sewer smells, or bubbling water in toilets, it points to a blocked roof plumbing vent. In some cases, you can clear the vent yourself, but only if you can do it safely with a secure ladder and proper precautions. When roof access is risky, try clearing it from inside the attic (if you have PVC pipes). That said, if the problem continues after trying or if you are unsure about safety at any point, it’s best to call a professional plumber. A trained expert can quickly find the real cause (clogged vent or not) and fix it without risk to you or your property. For reliable help in Townsville, reach out to our team at 1touch Plumbing. Our licensed plumbers can inspect and clear your roof vent and get your plumbing system working properly again. FAQs Can I just cap my vent to keep the birds out?

Roof Repair

DIY Roof Leak Repair: What You Can Fix Yourself vs. When to Call a Pro

admin / July 7, 2026

Some roof leaks you can fix yourself in an afternoon. Others will cost you far more if you try. The tricky part is knowing which is which, because DIY-ing the wrong one doesn’t just leave the problem unsolved, it can mean structural damage, a bigger repair bill, or a nasty fall from an unstable roof. In this guide, we’ll show you exactly what’s safe to tackle yourself, what isn’t, and how to do the DIY repairs properly when you do take them on. TL;DR First Steps When You Notice a Roof Leak Roof Leak Repairs You Can Do Yourself Now that you’ve found the source of the leak, you can fix it yourself if it’s caused by one of the common minor issues below. 1. Replacing Worn Roof Screws on Metal Roofs On metal roofs, one of the most common leak points is the roof screws. Each screw has a rubber washer underneath it that creates a waterproof seal. Over time, the rubber dries out, cracks, or flattens, allowing water to seep through the screw hole. How to replace a leaking roof screw 2. Replacing a Cracked Roof Tile If you have a tiled roof, even one cracked tile can let rain slip underneath and reach your ceiling. How to replace a broken roof tile 3. Resealing Around Roof Pipes and Plumbing Vents Most roofs have pipes for plumbing or ventilation. Around these pipes is a rubber seal called a dektite or pipe boot that prevents water from entering. Over time, these rubber seals can crack, dry out, or pull away from the roof, allowing water in. How to reseal a leaking pipe boot Never use bathroom or cheap all-purpose silicone, as it breaks down quickly in the sun and rain. 4. Patching Small Holes in a Metal Roof Small rust holes in metal roofing can be temporarily patched instead of replacing the whole sheet. How to patch a small hole 5. Fixing Leaky Flashing and Roof Valleys Some of the most common roof leaks happen where different parts of the roof join. Two common trouble spots are: These areas carry large amounts of rainwater. If debris builds up or the metal lifts slightly, water can get underneath and enter the roof. How to repair minor flashing or valley leaks 6. Cleaning and Re-Sealing a Whirlybird A whirlybird is a round, spinning roof vent that removes hot air from the roof space and improves ventilation. They sit near the top of the roof and spin when the wind passes through them. Over time, wind, storms, and heat can loosen the base or damage the seal around it, allowing rainwater to enter. How to fix a leaking whirlybird If the whirlybird is dented, rusted, or not spinning, replacement is the better option. 7. Clearing Blocked Gutters Before They Cause Leaks If you’ve confirmed the roof is fine and the problem was just blocked gutters causing water to overflow back into the house, then you have to clean them. How to clear blocked gutters properly Roof Leak Repairs That Usually Need a Professional Roofer If you notice any of the following problems, it’s best to call a licensed roofer instead of trying to fix it yourself. These types of roof problems need proper inspection, specialised equipment, and repairs that meet local safety and building standards. Our team at 1touch Plumbing can identify the exact cause of the leak and carry out safe, long-lasting repairs suited to Townsville conditions. How to Decide: DIY Fix or Call a Pro? We’ve created this quick checklist to help you decide whether a DIY repair is enough or if you need to call a professional roofer. The “Go Ahead and DIY” Checklist If you can tick all of these boxes, you can likely handle the repair yourself: The “Call a Pro” Checklist If even one of these points is true, you need to hire a professional: Final Rule of Thumb: When in doubt, stay on the ground. A professional roof plumber has the insurance and safety equipment to handle the risks that you, as a homeowner, shouldn’t take. The cost of a pro is far cheaper than the cost of an accident or a ruined roof. When a Roof Leak Repair May Not Be Enough Sometimes a simple roof repair isn’t enough because the damage is widespread or the roof has reached the end of its life. In these cases, repairs are only temporary, and the problem will keep returning. A full roof replacement is needed if any of the following apply: Final Thoughts When roof leaks happen, act quickly to contain the damage and prevent it from becoming a much bigger and more expensive problem. Attempt DIY repair only if it’s a small, clearly visible issue that is safe to handle and you are confident that you know how to solve it. If you have any doubt about the source of the leak, the extent of the damage, or your ability to fix it properly, it is always better to call a professional. A wrong repair can easily make the problem worse or hide more serious damage that continues to spread inside your roof. For reliable help in Townsville, reach out to our team at 1touch Plumbing. Our licensed professionals will inspect your roof, identify the leak source, and carry out safe, long-lasting repairs or recommend replacement if needed.

Gas Leak

Gas Leak in Your House: How to Detect It & What to Do Immediately

admin / July 2, 2026

A strange smell you can’t ignore. A faint hissing sound that wasn’t there before. A gas flame that suddenly looks off. When things like this show up at home, it’s not something you can afford to ignore. In this guide, we’ll walk you through these warning signs so you can quickly assess if it’s a gas leak and what to do immediately to stay safe. TL;DR The Most Common Signs of a Gas Leak in a House A Strange Smell Like Rotten Eggs If you smell strong odours of rotten eggs near your cooktop, hot water system, heater, or bayonet fitting, that’s the biggest and most immediate sign of a gas leak. Gas is odourless and invisible, so most leaks go undetected. That is why gas suppliers add a chemical called mercaptan, which has a very strong, unpleasant smell, so even a small leak becomes obvious straight away. Hissing or Whistling Noises Near Gas Lines Gas in your pipes is under pressure. When there’s a crack, a loose connection, or a worn seal, the gas gets forced out through that small opening. As it escapes, it creates a steady hissing or light whistling sound, similar to air leaking from a pricked balloon. You’ll usually hear this near gas appliances, along exposed pipes, or around the metre. It’s often more noticeable in quiet moments, like late at night. Bubbles in Standing Water Gas is invisible, but you can still spot a leak if it passes through water. If you suspect a leak, apply soapy water to a pipe joint or the area you think might be affected; escaping gas will push through the liquid and form bubbles. The same thing can happen outdoors. If there’s a leak in an underground gas line, you will see bubbles in the puddle, damp ground, or muddy patch above it. That bubbling happens because the gas is rising to the surface and forcing its way through the moisture. Dead or Discoloured Patches of Grass When a leak occurs underground, the gas escapes into the soil and replaces the oxygen that plant roots need to survive. Without oxygen, the roots can’t survive, and the grass above starts to weaken and die. So, if you notice a patch or strip of grass turning yellow or brown while the rest of your lawn looks healthy – especially if that patch follows a straight line where a gas pipe is likely running – it often points to an underground gas leak rather than a watering or soil issue. A Yellow or Orange Burner Flame Gas needs oxygen from the air to burn properly and release carbon dioxide (CO₂). A healthy flame should be blue and steady. That blue colour shows the gas is mixing well with enough oxygen and burning fully. This is called complete combustion, and it’s how your appliance is meant to work. If the flame turns yellow or orange, it means the gas isn’t getting enough oxygen while burning. This usually happens when the burner holes are partly blocked with dirt, grease, or soot, so less air mixes with the gas. Because of this, the gas burns incompletely, and instead of producing CO₂, it releases carbon monoxide (CO) (a dangerous, invisible gas) and soot that appears as black or oily marks around the burner or on cookware. Some of the gas may not burn at all and can escape into the surrounding air. So, while the yellow flame itself is a sign of a faulty appliance and poor burning, the result is a slow buildup of raw gas or dangerous carbon monoxide in your room every time the stove is on. Physical Symptoms When gas leaks into a room, it starts to replace the oxygen in the air. Your body needs oxygen to breathe, so even a small drop in its concentration in the air can affect you quickly. That’s why you might experience: But how can you tell it’s the air inside, not just a cold or fatigue? You can confirm this through a location test. Step outside into fresh air and see what happens. Unusual Clouds, Mist, or Moving Dust If a pipe is damaged or ruptures, the gas can escape in a strong, fast stream. That sudden release pushes against the air and tiny particles around it, so you might notice dust, dirt, or dry leaves moving or swirling in one small area, even when there’s no wind. You might also notice a slightly disturbed or unsettled patch of ground because the gas coming out from below is displacing the air and soil particles at the surface, which can make that spot look different from the rest of the ground. In some situations, especially in cooler early mornings in places like Townsville, where humidity is higher, you might also see a faint white mist or fog close to the ground. This happens because when gas is released quickly, it expands and cools the surrounding air. That rapid cooling causes moisture already in the air to condense into tiny water droplets, which you see as a visible mist. A Sudden Spike in Your Gas Bill If your daily habits haven’t changed (same cooking, same hot water use) but your bill suddenly jumps, it usually means gas is escaping through a leak, or there may be a billing error, which is rare. You can do a simple metre check at home to find if there is a gas leak. Turn off all your gas appliances, but leave the main gas supply on. Then go and look at your gas metre, which is found in a metal box at the front or along the side of your house. If the numbers are still moving or the dial is still spinning, it means gas is still flowing through the system, so there is a leak. Can You Have a Gas Leak Without Smelling It? Yes, you might not smell a gas leak because of the following reasons: This is why relying on a scent only is

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