Water Hammer – that loud bang every time your washing machine, dishwasher, or toilet shuts off is caused by a pressure surge that occurs when moving water suddenly stops inside your plumbing. Every day that it goes unfixed, that pressure surge places stress on pipe joints, valves, appliance hoses, and fittings. This repeated shock can eventually lead to leaks or premature component failure.  The tricky part is that the same noise can have several different causes. Instead of jumping straight to a water hammer arrestor, this guide will help you diagnose the problem first, match it with the right repair, and know when it’s time to call a plumber.  TL: DR 5 Most Common Causes of Water Hammer The same banging noise water hammer causes can have several different underlying reasons, so the right fix depends on what’s really creating the pressure surge. 1. Fast-Closing Valves and Appliances If the banging started after you installed a new washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator with an ice maker, or even a new toilet fill valve, that appliance is the first place to look. These fixtures use electrically operated solenoid valves that shut off almost instantly. When fast-moving water stops in a fraction of a second, it creates a pressure surge that travels back through the pipework. Older mechanical valves closed more gradually. Modern solenoid valves are designed for fast, precise water control, which means upgrading an appliance can introduce water hammer even when nothing else in your plumbing has changed. 2. High Water Pressure If the banging happens at several fixtures throughout the house, high water pressure is one of the first things to rule out. High water pressure doesn’t cause water hammer on its own, but it makes every pressure surge more forceful. A problem that is barely noticeable at normal pressure can become much louder as the pressure rises. Pressure consistently above 550 kPa (80 psi), unusually strong tap flow, leaking pressure relief valves, and plumbing fixtures that wear out prematurely are all common signs that household water pressure is too high. 3. Waterlogged Air Chambers or Missing Cushioning If the hammer has gradually become louder over time, particularly in an older home, the plumbing may no longer have enough cushioning to absorb pressure surges. Many older plumbing systems use vertical air chambers that trap a pocket of air to absorb hydraulic shock. Over time, those chambers can fill with water, leaving little or no air to cushion the pressure surge. Some homes don’t have an air chamber or water hammer arrestor near fast-closing fixtures at all. Without that protection, the pressure wave travels through the pipework and creates the familiar banging noise. 4. Loose Pipework or Worn Valves If the noise seems to come from inside a wall or ceiling, the pipes may be moving more than the pressure surge itself. Even a relatively small pressure surge can cause unsupported pipes to strike wall framing, ceiling joists, or neighbouring pipes, making the bang much louder than it would otherwise be. Worn shut-off valves, ageing toilet fill valves, and failing appliance valves can also make water hammer worse by closing unevenly or chattering during shut-off. If the noise is limited to one tap or toilet, replacing the faulty valve is often a better solution than installing an arrestor. 5. Trapped Air or Poor Pipe Layout If the banging started after plumbing work or a recent repair, trapped air in the system may be the cause. In some homes, the way the pipework is laid out can also make pressure surges louder. These problems are less common than faulty valves or high water pressure, but they can produce similar symptoms. Diagnose the Problem in 30 Seconds If you notice… The most likely cause Washing machine bangs at the end of a fill cycle Fast-closing solenoid valve Multiple fixtures bang High household water pressure Noise inside one wall Loose pipework Started after a new appliance Missing arrestor or fast-closing valve Arrestor didn’t solve it Pressure problem or another plumbing fault How to Fix Water Hammer The right fix depends on what’s causing the pressure surge. Before replacing parts, identify which fixture is making the noise. Water hammer affecting one appliance usually needs a different repair than hammer affecting the entire plumbing system. 1. Find the Fixture Causing the Noise Start by identifying exactly where the noise is coming from. This quick check usually tells you which repair to try first. How to do it The next step depends on what you found. If the noise is limited to one fixture or appliance, continue to the Local Fixes for a Single Fixture section below. If the noise occurs at multiple fixtures or throughout the house, move to Reduce High Water Pressure first. Noise at multiple fixtures usually points to a plumbing system issue rather than a single faulty fixture.  2. Local Fixes for a Single Fixture Restore Waterlogged Air Chambers If you live in an older home and the hammer developed gradually, restoring the air chambers is a good place to start. How to do it If the hammer returns quickly, the air chambers are no longer providing enough cushioning. Installing a water hammer arrestor is the more reliable long-term fix. Install a Water Hammer Arrestor If the noise only comes from a washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, ice maker, or another appliance with a fast-closing valve, a water hammer arrestor is usually the most effective solution. How to do it Use the correct arrestor size for your plumbing system. Replace Worn or Fast-Closing Valves If the hammer is limited to one toilet, tap, or appliance, replacing the valve may solve the problem. How to do it 3. Reduce High Water Pressure If the noise occurs at multiple fixtures or throughout the house, check your household water pressure before replacing anything else. How to do it 4. Secure Loose Pipework Behind Walls and Ceilings Sometimes the pressure surge isn’t the main problem. The noise is caused by pipes moving and hitting the framing or

Tree roots enter your sewer pipe through small cracks or loose pipe joints, then continue to grow until they restrict or completely block the flow of wastewater. But identifying the warning signs early helps you address the root cause before it leads to major pipe damage, sewage backups, or more expensive repairs. In this guide, we’ll share with you the common signs of tree roots in pipes, how to confirm the problem, DIY and professional removal methods, and the best ways to prevent tree roots from growing back. TL;DR Signs You May Have Tree Roots in Your Pipes Indoor Warning Signs Outdoor Warning Signs How to Confirm Tree Roots in Pipes Tree roots grow inside underground pipes, so you can’t confirm the problem by looking at your drains or yard. A licensed plumber uses specialised equipment to locate the root intrusion, assess the pipe’s condition, and recommend the most suitable repair method.  Here is what a plumber does:  DIY Methods to Remove Tree Roots from Pipes   Under the Queensland Plumbing and Drainage Act 2018, only a licensed plumber can repair, replace, alter, or dismantle sanitary drainage pipes. But you can use a few non-invasive DIY methods to control minor tree root growth inside the pipe. These methods don’t involve repairing or altering the pipe, so you stay within the law. Copper Sulphate Treatment Copper sulphate kills the fine feeder roots that have grown through cracks or pipe joints. As the roots die, they gradually break down and wash away with normal wastewater flow, improving drainage.  How to use it: This method only works when wastewater can still flow through the pipe because a complete blockage prevents the treatment from reaching the tree roots. Commercial Foaming Root Killers Foaming root killers release a foam that expands to fill the pipe. The foam sticks to the pipe walls and joints, coating the roots growing from the top and sides, and the active ingredient then kills the fine roots. How to use them: Foaming root killers work best on early root intrusion. They won’t clear a pipe clogged with thick roots or fix cracks that let roots keep growing back. Household Drain Auger A household drain auger is a flexible steel cable with a corkscrew tip that breaks up or pulls out fine tree roots and loose root fibres from the pipe. It works best on small root intrusions close to an inspection opening but isn’t powerful enough to clear large root masses or collapsed pipes.  How to use it: Stop immediately if the cable becomes stuck or you feel excessive resistance. Forcing the auger may crack older earthenware pipes or cause the cable to become trapped. Professional Methods to Remove Tree Roots From Pipes If wastewater is overflowing from your overflow relief gully (ORG) or inspection opening, or backing up into your home, the blockage is too severe for DIY chemical treatments. At this stage, a licensed plumber will use the following methods to remove the roots. Mechanical Root Cutting (Drain Eel/Snake) A plumber feeds a heavy-duty rotating steel cable into the sewer pipe using a powered drain machine. A specialised root-cutting blade or C-cutter attached to the cable spins through the tree roots, cutting them into smaller pieces and reopening the pipe. Mechanical root cutting typically costs $150 to $350 for a standard residential drain blockage. It works best for thick tree roots causing localised blockages in clay, cast-iron, or PVC sewer pipes. However, root cutting only removes the blockage. It doesn’t repair the cracks or separated pipe joints that allowed the roots to enter, so roots often grow back. The cutting blades can also damage old, brittle earthenware pipes. High-Pressure Hydro Jetting After mechanical root cutting, plumbers use hydro-jetting to remove any remaining root fibres, grease, sludge, and debris. A hydro-jetting machine pumps high-pressure water through a reinforced hose to clean the entire inside of the pipe. Hydro jetting typically costs $300 to $600 for a standard residential blockage, depending on the severity of the blockage and access to the pipe. Like root cutting, hydro jetting removes the blockage but doesn’t seal cracks or damaged pipe joints, allowing tree roots to return through the same openings. Our team at 1touch Plumbing uses professional equipment to clear blocked drains, remove tree roots, and restore normal wastewater flow.  How to Prevent Tree Roots From Growing Back in Pipes To prevent future root intrusion, we recommend one of the following long-term solutions. Trenchless Pipe Relining After removing the tree roots, a plumber inserts a flexible liner coated with structural epoxy resin into the damaged pipe. The liner is inflated and cured in place, creating a seamless pipe inside the existing one that seals cracks and separated joints. Most residential pipe relining projects cost $4,000 to $12,000. It is the best option for pipes beneath driveways, buildings, patios, or landscaped areas where excavation would be costly or disruptive. To confirm relining suits the extent and type of damage, our team at 1Touch runs a CCTV inspection first, then carries out the trenchless pipe relining. Traditional Excavation and Pipe Replacement If the pipe has collapsed or tree roots have caused extensive damage, plumbers excavate the affected area, remove the damaged pipe and root mass, and install new PVC sewer pipe with watertight joints. Simple pipe replacements start from $1,000, while larger or more complex excavations cost significantly more. Excavation may also require repairs to lawns, gardens, paving, or driveways after the new pipe is installed. Although excavation and replacement is the most disruptive option, it permanently removes the damaged pipe and eliminates the entry points that allowed tree roots to invade. Root Barrier Installation A plumber installs a root barrier between the tree and the sewer pipe to redirect growing roots away from the drainage system and protect repaired or newly installed pipes. Professional installation typically costs $200 to $300 per linear metre, depending on the barrier type, trench length, and site conditions. They work best where large trees are close to underground sewer

You’ve probably received a notice about backflow testing or noticed a small valve near your water metre without thinking much of it. After all, your tap water looks clean and safe – so it’s easy to assume everything is working as it should. But when your home has a swimming pool, a rainwater tank, or an irrigation system, there are situations where water from those systems, carrying bacteria, dirt, and chemicals, can flow backwards into the main water line and contaminate your supply.  That’s why that valve is there – it’s a backflow prevention device, and it’s designed to stop that from happening. But it can only protect you if it’s working properly, which is why regular testing is needed. In this guide, we’ll walk you through how backflow testing works, how often you need it, and what can happen if it’s ignored. TL;DR What Backflow Testing Actually Means Backflow testing is a professional check to make sure your backflow prevention device is doing its job properly: stopping contaminated water from getting into your clean, drinking water supply. Under normal circumstances, the flow of water is in one direction. Water moves from high pressure in the council water main (in the street) through your water metre into your house, which has lower pressure.  Sometimes, though, this process reverses. If the pressure in your home increases (higher than the street’s) or the pressure in the street decreases dramatically, the flow can reverse, and water moves from your house pipes into the street’s pipes.  To prevent this situation, a backflow prevention device is installed on your property (often near the water metre or at the points of connection for irrigation or tanks). It has a one-way check valve that allows water to flow in one direction only and automatically closes if the direction of flow is reversed. Unfortunately, in Townsville, the hard water contains minerals, which can gradually build up inside the components within your backflow device. With the buildup of minerals, the components stick together or start wearing out, and eventually, the valve in the backflow device will not seal correctly. If the backflow device fails to close when flow is reversed, it won’t be able to prevent polluted water from contaminating the mains supply, letting bacteria and chemicals enter your drinking water and causing serious health problems. That is why backflow testing is very important, as it verifies that your device correctly responds and closes off to the reversal of water flow. Does Backflow Testing Apply to Your Home in Queensland? Backflow testing only applies to your home if you have a testable device installed. In Queensland, these devices are mandatory if your property has medium- to high-risk water setups, like: How Often Is Backflow Testing Required in QLD In Queensland, backflow testing must be carried out once a year.  The Townsville City Council keeps a database, or a backflow register, of all of the properties in the city with a testable device. Each year, they send you – the registered person – an invoice for your annual registration fee or a renewal notice. Once you get the notice, it’s your responsibility to make sure that the device gets tested by the end of the calendar year (31st December) and the fee is paid. Who Can Legally Perform the Test? In Queensland, only a plumber who meets the requirements below can perform the test: Now, to know for sure that you’re choosing a qualified professional, just ask them, “Do you have a backflow endorsement, and is your test kit currently in calibration?” An expert will happily present their QBCC card, which shows ‘Backflow Prevention’ under ‘endorsements’ on the back. Alternatively, you can quickly verify their credentials yourself on the QBCC Licensee Register online. All you need is their name or licence number to access their full details and ensure their status is active. What Happens During The Appointment The backflow appointment normally takes 30 to 45 minutes. Here’s a breakdown of what happens during that time: Along with the completed Form 9, you pay the lodgement fee to the Council to ensure that your device remains registered for the rest of the year. What If The Backflow Device Fails? By Queensland law, if your backflow device fails, you have to get it repaired or replaced immediately. Most of the failures happen for small things, like a dried-out rubber seal or a bit of grit getting stuck in the valve. Your plumber will open the device, give it a good clean, and replace any worn-out rubber parts. Once the repair is done, the plumber will test the device again. If your device passes the test this time, they will fill out a Form 9 to give to the Townsville City Council as your official “Pass” notice and note that your device was serviced to get it working properly again. But sometimes, your backflow device is too old, or the metal itself is too corroded for repair. If that’s the case, a whole new backflow prevention device will have to be installed, and the new system will be tested. In this situation, your plumber submits two separate forms: Very rarely, a plumber might not be able to repair your device on the spot if they don’t have a spare part or can’t find a suitable replacement. In such a case, they cannot leave your water system at risk. They’ll disconnect your water supply to the hazard appliance (like an irrigation system or pool) by turning off the valve to those appliances while leaving the rest of your house connected to the main supply, so you can carry out your daily activities until they return with the part. Can a Backflow Prevention Device Be Removed Instead? The short answer is yes, but only if the reason it was installed in the first place is gone.  If you’ve made changes to your plumbing that remove the original risk – like getting rid of a pool, switching from automatic sprinklers to a simple garden