Blocked Drains Townsville
Fast & Professional Drainage & Blocked Drains Service
Second, we use only the best materials for all our installation and repair services. We have contact with the best providers of plumbing materials, and we purchase the items we use in all our projects from them only.
Last, our services are all affordable, and we make sure to work within your budget without compromising quality. For these reasons, you can rely on 1touch Plumbing to give you the best services for all your plumbing needs.
Signs You Have Blocked Drains & Drainage Issues
- The drainage is slow or inconsistent
- Odd sounds, such as gurgling noises, are coming from the pipes
- Unpleasant odours are emanating from the drains
- Water is backing up, or black debris is seeping up from the drains
What Causes Blocked Drains?
Over time, a build-up of hair, grease, soap and food waste can lead to a blockage. When grease binds with hair follicles and soap fragments, it can create a thick and difficult-to-remove obstruction. This is often how blocked drains are formed in your bathroom or kitchen sink.
Toilets are often clogged by household sanitary products, such as wet wipes and menstrual pads. Only toilet paper should ever be flushed down a toilet.
Underground pipes can be blocked or damaged if tree roots intrude into the drain area. It’s advisable to have regular plumbing maintenance inspections to ensure your pipes and drains aren’t compromised by any of these factors.
DIY Fixes For A Blocked Drain Are Not Always The Solution
If a blockage appears to be minor, the use of a plunger might quickly dislodge food particles or other minor causes of the blockage. If this is unsuccessful or for serious drainage concerns, your best option is to rely on an experienced professional. Other DIY fixes can worsen issue, damage and other problems that affect the integrity of your plumbing.
1touch Plumbing has handled jobs both large and small. Our experience ranges from simple toilet blockages and drains repairs to complex troubleshooting involving storm damage, tree roots and other blocked drain emergencies.
Townsville's Professional Drainage Plumber
A blocked drain or sewer left too long can lead to cost-prohibitive repairs or replacement. That’s why it’s best to deal with the problem quickly and efficiently. It’s also advisable to have regular plumbing maintenance to detect problems before they start.
The good news is that our plumbers are professional, friendly and courteous and will provide you with a full cost for approval before they commence any work. That way, there are no surprises, and you can be assured of top-quality service, guaranteed using the most advanced state-of-the-art equipment, tools and machinery.
With several years of experience working with private and commercial property owners in Townsville, 1touch Plumbing is a team committed to delivering the least disruptive and most economical and reliable outcomes to our customers.
Contact Our Blocked Drain Plumbers Today
We’re open for callouts 24/7, so contact the 1touch Plumbing team today for assistance with your blocked drains.
Call us on (07) 4751 7600 or email our team at admin@1touchplumbing.com.au to get started.
Our Latest Blocked Drain Blogs
Gas Hot Water vs Electric: Which is Best for Townsville Homes in 2026?
Gas and electric hot water systems differ in how they heat water, how much they cost to run, how quickly they recover, and what space and maintenance they require. Understanding these differences helps you make the right choice. Because the system you choose directly affects your energy bills, whether you have uninterrupted hot water during peak times, and how well your setup holds up during Townsville’s storms and power outages. In this guide, we’ll break down how each system works and compare them across upfront and running costs, and long-term use, so you can see clearly which option fits your household without second-guessing your decision. TL;DR Gas vs. Electric Hot Water Systems: Quick Overview Before we dive in, a quick note on what we’re comparing here. While both gas and electric systems come in different types, gas systems are typically installed as instantaneous (continuous flow) units, while electric systems are more commonly used as storage tanks. That’s why this guide focuses on comparing gas continuous flow systems with electric storage systems, because this reflects the most common real-world choice for Townsville homeowners. Gas Hot Water System at a Glance A gas hot water system uses a burner powered by natural gas or LPG to heat water. In a continuous flow gas system, since there is no storage tank, when you turn on a hot tap, a flow sensor detects the moving water and activates the burner. The water passes through a heat exchanger (a series of copper coils) positioned above the flame. The heat is transferred directly to the water as it flows through, so it is heated within seconds before reaching the tap. These systems use electronic controls to adjust the flame based on demand. If you turn on a second tap, the control panel increases the gas flow to keep the temperature steady. Many units are factory-set to the safe temperature of 50°C, often removing the need for an external tempering valve to mix in cold water. Once the tap is turned off, the sensor detects the flow stop and shuts down the burner immediately, so energy is used only when hot water is actually needed. Electric Hot Water System at a Glance An electric hot water system heats water using immersed heating elements inside a storage tank. Cold water enters the tank through a dip tube and settles at the bottom, where a heating element is placed. When the thermostat detects that the temperature has dropped below 60°C, which is the minimum storage temperature required under Queensland regulations to prevent bacterial growth, it switches the heating element on to heat the water. The heated water rises to the top of the tank and is drawn out when you open a tap, while fresh cold water flows in, and the cycle continues. Because water is stored at high temperatures, a tempering valve is installed to mix in cold water before it reaches your taps, delivering water at a safe temperature of 50°C to prevent burns. Upfront Investment: What You’ll Pay to Buy and Install Gas Continuous-Flow System Typical installed cost: $1,800 – $3,500 Gas systems are slightly more expensive upfront because they require specialist installation to manage high-intensity burners and exhaust. Costs include: Electric Storage System Typical installed cost: $1,500 – $3,000 Electric systems are cheaper upfront because most Townsville homes already have the wiring and space for a tank. Costs typically include: When Switching Fuel Types Gets Expensive You can see that gas and electric systems both fall into almost the same cost bracket, with a difference of only a few hundred dollars, but this is for a like-for-like replacement. If you change systems and fuel types, the total cost can rise quickly. Running Costs: What You Pay Over Time In Townsville, running costs vary between the two systems depending on your energy rate and daily hot water usage. You can expect to pay: Gas Continuous-Flow System Annual running cost: $400 – $1,000 Gas costs vary depending on how the gas is supplied. For homes connected to natural gas, you pay a daily supply charge of about $0.80–$1.10. This is a fixed cost just for being connected, which adds $300–$400 per year, even if you use very little gas. On top of that, you also pay for the gas you actually use. For homes using 45 kg LPG cylinders, a four-person family typically uses 3-5 cylinders annually. Each refill and delivery costs between $120 and $170 per cylinder, and you also pay cylinder rental of about $45–$55 per bottle annually. Altogether, this brings total yearly costs to around $800–$1,000. This makes gas a premium choice for many Townsville households. Electric Storage System Annual running cost: $600 – $900 This estimate covers a typical four-person household using a 250–315 L tank, which uses around 3,300 kWh per year. If your home has solar panels, costs can drop even further. By using a timer or solar diverter, you can heat water during the middle of the day when your system is generating excess power and store it for later use. So, there is no need to purchase electricity from the government grid. So, gas systems are only cheaper when electric systems use the standard tariff 11. However, when you move to Tariff 33 or use solar, electric storage becomes the more economical choice. Hot Water Performance & Recovery: How Fast You Can Get Water Performance refers to how quickly a system can deliver hot water and how long that supply lasts during peak use. The recovery rate is how fast the system can heat water again after it has been used. Gas Continuous-Flow System Gas systems are the higher-performance option because a gas burner produces a strong, concentrated flame that transfers heat directly through a heat exchanger, which lets the system heat water very quickly and deliver it within 10 to 15 seconds of turning on the tap. For continuous-flow units, the recovery rate is not really a limitation. Water is heated as it passes through the unit, […]
Hot Water System Leaking: Causes, What to Do & When to Replace
Whether you can repair your hot water system’s leak or not comes down to what’s actually causing it. Some issues, like loose pipe connections or a worn valve, are quick and affordable to fix. Others, like a corroded or cracked tank, mean the system itself is failing and needs replacing. In this guide, we’ll walk you through what to do as soon as you notice a leak, how to figure out what’s causing it, and how to decide whether a repair will do the job or if it’s time for a new system. TL;DR What to Do Immediately When You Notice a Leak How Leak Location Helps You Diagnose the Problem Once things are under control, you can take a closer look at where the water is actually coming from. This is important because the location of the leak tells you two key things: Here’s what each location tells you: Water Pooling at the Top If water is pooling around the top of the tank, it mostly comes from the pipes and fittings attached to the tank’s top. These connections handle the flow of hot and cold water in and out of the unit, and if they become loose or the seals wear out, water can escape. Because these components are external and easy to access, leaks here are generally minor and fixable. Water Running Down the Side When water runs down the side of the tank, it usually comes from safety valves attached to the side. These valves are designed to release water if the pressure or temperature gets too high. If the valve starts opening more often or keeps dripping, it can mean the valve is worn out, or the system is under constant stress, like high incoming water pressure or overheating. The plumber will check what’s causing the valve to open and fix it accordingly. Water Seeping from the Bottom When water pools at the base of the tank, it means the leak is coming from inside the tank itself. Most tanks have a drain point near the bottom, and if water is only leaking from this tap, it’s a replaceable part. But if water is seeping from behind the metal casing or through the insulation at the bottom, the inner cylinder has likely corroded or cracked, which is not something you can patch up, and the tank itself has failed and needs replacing. Common Causes of a Hot Water System Leaking Now that the leak’s location has given you a clue, it’s time to figure out what’s actually causing it and how to check for sure. Loose Inlet or Outlet Pipe Connections The pipes going in and out of your tank are one of the most common places for leaks to start. These joints are sealed with threaded fittings and small rubber washers that keep the connection watertight. Over time, the metal fittings made of copper or brass expand and contract as the water heats up and cools down. This repeated movement slowly loosens the connections. The flow of water also causes small vibrations, which weaken the joint even more. On top of that, in North Queensland, constant heat and humidity can dry out and harden the rubber washers, so they don’t seal properly anymore. Once that seal weakens or the fitting loosens, water starts to escape. How to Confirm: Wipe the tank and pipe connections dry with a cloth. Wait 10–15 minutes, then check for fresh droplets at the joint. If the water appears at the pipe but the tank surface stays dry, the leak is likely from the connection. Faulty Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve The TPR valve is a safety device located on the side of the tank near the top. Its job is to release a small amount of water if the pressure or temperature inside the tank exceeds the safety limits of around 500 kPa or 99°C, as set by Australian standards. A few drips during the heating cycle are normal. That’s because when water heats up, it expands, which slightly increases pressure inside the tank. The valve releases a bit of water to relieve that extra pressure and keep the system safe. But if you notice a steady drip or a constant stream, something isn’t right. This can happen when: How to Confirm: Take a look at the tundish, the small drain pipe running down from the valve. If water is flowing steadily, gently lift the small lever on the valve for a few seconds to flush out any dirt or mineral bits. Then let the lever close. To check your water pressure, you can attach a simple pressure gauge to an outdoor tap or the cold-water inlet of the tank. Most homes should be around 400–500 kPa. Leaking Drain Valve The drain valve is the small tap at the bottom of your tank, mainly used for maintenance and flushing. Over time, especially in older tanks, it can start to leak because the valve’s components – plastic or brass – wear out, or sediment and mineral buildup from the local water get stuck inside, stopping them from sealing properly, which eventually causes leaks. How to Confirm: Take a look at the base of the drain tap. If you see a steady drip or a small puddle or notice white, chalky limescale around the opening, the valve isn’t sealing anymore. Sediment Buildup and Internal Wear Inside your hot water tank, there’s a sacrificial anode, which is a metal rod that absorbs minerals from local water and slowly corrodes to protect the tank. But if this rod is worn out, minerals in your water (like sand, calcium, and grit) sink to the bottom. Over time, they form a layer of sediment. The heating element sits just above or embedded in this layer, so the heat it produces doesn’t transfer efficiently into the water. That means the metal directly under the element (the tank base) takes the brunt of the heat because the sediment doesn’t conduct the heat well. Over months and […]
Instantaneous Hot Water Systems: How They Work, Costs & Pros/Cons
An instantaneous hot water system, also called a tankless or continuous flow system, heats water on demand instead of storing it in a big tank. That means you don’t have to wait for a big 300-litre tank to refill and reheat; just turn on the tap, and the system starts heating water right away. It’s a space- and energy-saver, and can even save you a bit on your bills. But ‘instant’ can be a little misleading. How fast the hot water actually reaches your tap and whether this type of system is right for your home depends on your house layout, how much water you use, and your plumbing setup. In this guide, we’ll break down how these systems work, how much they cost, their pros and cons, and when they make sense for your home, so you can make an informed decision. TL;DR How Instantaneous Hot Water Systems Work When you turn on a hot tap, water starts moving through the pipe and into the hot water system. A flow sensor inside the unit detects this movement immediately and sends a signal to the electronic control unit (ECU), which acts as the system’s controller. The ECU starts the heating process: At the same time, cold water flows into a copper pipe inside the heat exchanger. The burner or elements heat the exchanger, and that heat transfers through the copper pipe into the moving water. Because the water is constantly flowing, it heats up in seconds and continues heating as long as the tap stays on. Before the water leaves the unit, a thermistor (temperature sensor) measures the water temperature as it reaches the outlet of the unit. The system is mostly set to heat water to around 60°C in Queensland homes to prevent bacterial growth and meets Australian safety standards. If the water isn’t at that set temperature, the electronic control unit (ECU) adjusts the heat instantly by: Once the water reaches that set temperature, it leaves the unit and travels through your pipes. Before it reaches bathroom taps, it passes through a tempering valve, which mixes in cold water to bring it down to a safer 50° to prevent burns. Finally, when you turn the tap off, the water flow stops. The flow sensor detects this, and the ECU shuts down the burner or heating elements, and the system goes back to standby mode. Types of Instantaneous Hot Water Systems Based on Energy Source 1. Natural Gas Systems A natural gas instantaneous system is a tankless unit connected directly to your home’s mains gas supply. These systems can deliver high flow rates because gas burners can produce a large amount of heat very quickly. This high heat output allows the system to heat more water at once, which is why they’re commonly used in family homes with higher hot water demand. In Townsville, homes that already have a gas connection often go with this option because it provides strong, consistent hot water and is typically cheaper to run than electricity. 2. LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas) Systems An LPG instantaneous system works the same way as a natural gas unit, but instead of being connected to a gas line, it uses gas cylinders stored outside the home. These systems are more expensive to run than natural gas because you not only pay for the gas but also for delivery, bottle refills, and rental of the cylinders. As for performance, there’s no real difference. LPG units still use a gas burner, so they can produce high heat quickly and handle high demand without a noticeable drop in temperature. This makes LPG a practical option for homes that don’t have access to mains gas, which is common in rural or outer parts of North Queensland. 3. Electric Instantaneous Systems Electric instantaneous systems use high-powered heating elements instead of a gas burner to heat water on demand. They’re smaller and more compact because they don’t need parts like a burner, flue, or ventilation, so you can easily have them installed inside cupboards, under sinks, or in tight spaces. But heating water instantly with electricity takes a large amount of energy in a very short time. A standard single-phase power supply can only deliver a limited amount of electricity at once, which is not enough to heat large volumes of water for your entire house while multiple taps are running. To handle higher demand, electric systems require three-phase power. But, most homes don’t have this by default, as single-phase is the standard for residential properties. And if you want to upgrade to three-phase, it often involves changes to the switchboard and supply connection, which is quite expensive. Because of these limits, electric instantaneous systems in Townsville are only used in lower-demand setups, like a single bathroom or a granny flat, where only a small amount of water needs to be heated at a time. Based on Heating Technology 1. Standard (Non-Condensing) Systems A standard instantaneous system is the basic gas model that heats water with a gas burner, and the hot gases created during combustion are vented straight out through a flue. Some of the heat produced in the burner escapes with those exhaust gases, which means not all the energy from the gas goes into heating your water. Because of this, these units are less energy-efficient than newer designs. These systems are popular in many older homes in Australia because they are simple and cheaper to buy upfront. 2. Condensing Systems A condensing instantaneous system is a high-efficiency version of a gas unit. It works like a standard system but with one key improvement: it reuses heat from the exhaust gases. The hot gases from the burner normally leave through the flue. In a condensing system, these gases pass through a second heat exchanger, which transfers much of that leftover heat into the incoming cold water. This means more of the gas energy actually heats your water instead of being wasted. However, these systems cost more upfront, but in Townsville homes […]
Why is My Toilet Not Flushing Properly? And How to Fix It
In a normal flush, the cistern (tank) releases a set amount of water (typically 3 L for a half flush and 4.5 L for a full flush in modern Australian toilets). This causes water drops to fall quickly into the bowl, generating enough force to carry waste through the trap and into the sewer line. Your toilet won’t flush properly when this process is interrupted. For example, the tank may not be full enough, the flapper (the rubber valve at the bottom of the cistern that releases water into the bowl) may not lift completely, or there may be a partial blockage in the trap or drain. In these cases, the water still moves, but it doesn’t have enough speed or volume to clear the bowl completely. In this guide, we’ll show you how to identify each of these issues and explain the signs to look for, and walk you through step-by-step fixes. We will also tell you when it’s time to call a licensed plumber so you can restore a strong, reliable flush. TL;DR Most Common Reasons a Toilet Is Not Flushing Properly Now that you know the signs of a weak flush, the next step is figuring out what’s causing it. Here are the most common problems and how to confirm each one. 1. The Shut-Off Valve Is Not Letting Enough Water Through Sometimes the issue isn’t in the toilet but outside it. The shut-off valve is the small tap on the wall or floor behind or besides your toilet that controls the flow of water from your home’s main supply into the cistern. If this valve is not fully open, or if it’s partially blocked or corroded, the cistern will fill slowly or may not reach the correct water level. This leads to a weak or incomplete flush because there simply isn’t enough water stored in the tank to push waste through the trap. How to confirm it: 2. The Tank Water Level Is Too Low (Fill Valve or Float Issue) The fill valve and float control how much water enters the cistern from the shut-off valve. The float rises as the tank fills, and when it reaches a set height, it signals the fill valve to stop the water flow. Sometimes this system doesn’t work properly: the shut-off point may be set too low, the float can get stuck and stop rising, or the fill valve itself can wear down. In any of these cases, the tank doesn’t fill completely, leaving too little water for a strong flush. How to confirm it: 3. The Flush Valve (Rubber Seal) Isn’t Releasing Enough Water At the bottom of the cistern is a flush valve, a rubber seal that lifts when you flush to release water into the bowl. If this seal is misaligned, worn out, drops back too quickly, or doesn’t lift properly, water may be leaking or released in a short, weak burst rather than a full flush. How to confirm it: 4. The Chain or Link Inside the Cistern Isn’t Working Properly Inside the cistern, the flush button is connected to the flush valve by a chain or plastic link. When you press the button, this link lifts the valve, allowing water to flow out. If the chain is too loose, too tight, or disconnected, the valve won’t open properly, so not enough water is released. How to confirm it: 5. Rim Jets or Syphon Hole Blocked By Build-Up Under the rim of the toilet bowl are small holes called rim jets, which spray water around the bowl to create a strong, swirling flush. There is also a syphon jet at the bottom of the bowl, a larger hole that shoots water directly into the trapway (pipe connecting the bowl to the sewer line) to push waste down the drain. Over time, mineral deposits and grime can build up inside these openings, especially in Townsville, where hard water leaves residue. When the rim jets or syphon hole is partially blocked, water enters the bowl slowly or unevenly, and the flush loses strength. How to confirm it: 6. The Bowl Water Level Is Too Low (Refill Tube Issue) Inside the cistern, a small rubber hose, the refill tube, delivers a trickle of water into the bowl with the help of the overflow pipe as the tank refills. If the tube is disconnected or improperly positioned, the bowl won’t refill completely. That means the next flush has to use its initial force just to fill the bowl, rather than push waste through the trap, resulting in a weak or incomplete flush. How to confirm it: 7. A Partial Blockage in the Toilet or Drain A partial blockage occurs when the toilet’s internal passage for water and waste is narrowed, so it can drain, but not quickly enough to clear the bowl in a single flush. This can happen if too much toilet paper is flushed at once, or if items like wipes or sanitary products get stuck. Over time, mineral deposits from the local hard water can also build up inside the curved section of the toilet pipe (the S-bend), gradually narrowing the flow. How to confirm it: 8. A Deeper Drain or Sewer Line Problem If the toilet and its immediate trap are clear, the problem may be further down the drain line or in the plumbing vent system. Blockages in the main sewer, tree roots, or restricted airflow through vent pipes create backpressure or resistance. This slows the water leaving the bowl, making the flush appear weak or incomplete because the water has to push against this resistance. How to confirm it: How to Fix a Toilet That Won’t Flush Properly The solution for a weak flush depends on whether the problem is inside the cistern, within the toilet itself, or deeper in the drain line. Start with the basic internal adjustments, then move to deep fixes if the issue continues. Step 1: Service The Shut-Off Valve If you found that the water level in […]
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Frequently Asked Questions
There are many warning signs that there is a blocked drain on your property. The most common symptom of a blocked drain is a foul or unpleasant smell emitting from the drain. Additionally, slow drainage or incomplete drainage are also signs that your drain could be blocked. Strange gurgling sounds may also be indicative that there is a draining problem somewhere within your drain system.
A blocked drain can be caused by many things. Whether you suspect you know what the culprit is or you’re completely unsure, the best course of action is to call in a professional plumber. That being said, the most common reason why a drain becomes blocked is due to solid materials or items obstructing the flow of liquid. Items that frequently obstruct a drain include hair, tissue, sanitary towels and more.
If you are going to attempt to clear a blocked drain yourself, it’s important that you follow the correct procedures. The most popular DIY method of clearing a blocked drain is to pour hot water down the drain, followed by some baking soda and vinegar. Wait between 5 and 10 minutes before pouring more hot water down. However, it is advised that you call out a plumber to unclog a drain in order to make sure that it is cleared correctly and safely.
Blocked stormwater drains typically show signs like pooling water around your property, slow drainage during heavy rain or gurgling noises from the pipes. If left unattended, blocked stormwater drains can lead to flooding and property damage. If you suspect a problem, it’s best to consult a plumber experienced in clearing Townsville blocked drains.
To prevent blockages, avoid flushing items like wet wipes, paper towels, sanitary products and excessive amounts of toilet paper. Even items marketed as “flushable" can cause issues, as they don’t break down easily in the pipes. Only flush human waste and toilet paper to keep your drains clear.
Tree roots naturally seek out moisture and can invade small cracks in underground pipes. Over time, as the roots grow, they cause significant blockages by obstructing the pipe or even breaking through it. If you have large trees near your home, regular plumbing inspections can help detect root intrusions early. Need blocked drain plumbing solutions? Our experienced team is ready to help!
Blocked shower drains are often caused by a build-up of hair, soap scum and other debris. Over time, these materials can accumulate in the pipes, restricting water flow and leading to slow drainage or standing water in your shower. If you’re facing this issue, it’s essential to contact a plumber who specialises in blocked drain plumbing to resolve the blockage before it worsens.
It’s best to leave clearing blocked drains to professional plumbers. While some home remedies might seem effective, improper attempts can worsen the problem or cause damage to your pipes. A professional plumber will have the right tools and expertise to clear the blockage safely and thoroughly, ensuring no further issues arise. If you notice signs of a blockage, such as slow draining or gurgling sounds, contact a professional as soon as possible to resolve the issue before it escalates.
When multiple drains are blocked simultaneously, it often indicates a more severe issue with your main sewer line. This requires a professional to locate and fix the problem. A professional plumber in Townsville can quickly assess the situation and offer a solution to prevent further damage.
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